1953 Ford Customline 351 Cleveland Project

(Good bye flathead... I need more Giddyyup!!!)
and my middle name is Cleaveland!!)

These were taken at a friends home and really turned out nice
June, 2008

This is the new motor for my 1953 Ford Sedan
along with a Ford toploader 4 speed and Ford 9 inch rear.

They are in the car, just finishing things up to make it drivable.

16 Jan 2012: Mpeg Video of motor running in short bursts (250 Meg)

This is a really large file, so download will take a while.

A Note About Time And The Occasional Lack Of Progress

I know there are times it seems that not much is getting done.
Well, be at peace, I spend a LOT of time thinking about stuff before
I lift a wrench. Some of this stuff is the first time for me and
perhaps anyone else on a '53 Ford. So, I think a lot and then make
it happen. Most times it works, sometimes it doesn't.

A lot of times I just want to play video games or watch movies
instead of crawling around the car all weekend. I do still have
laundry, cooking, and all the other things that need to be done
around the house on a regular basis.

I am single after all, and I'm the only one here to get it done.

In the Beginning

Before the driveline replacement began

Assembled 27 Oct 1952, Dallas, TX
Sold new by Donges-Long Ford in Colorado Springs, CO.
I bought it second hand in 1987 with 87,000 miles on the odometer.
The folks I bought it from inherited it from the wife's parents,
the original owners.

Originally a 239 cu.in. Flathead V8.
"3 on the tree" 3 speed overdrive transmission.
Tube type AM Radio with Pushbutton presets.
6 volt positive ground.

This was right after I did the original $40 paint job (1990)
4 cans black Krylon, and 1 ea: white, yellow, orange, red
Cost included masking tape!

The engine and driveline were rebuilt by Charlie and Tom
of Snow Automotive in Colorado Springs.
Completed 06 Apr 2001, with 15065 on the Odometer (add 100,000)
and what a nice job they did.
The motor was sold in August, 2011, for $3,000.00.

The Rebuild Progress

Newest on top

Transmission, rear axle, and electrical sections at bottom

22 Apr 2012: Stainless Fuel line is complete and working.

I have installed new stainless fuel line from the tank to the fuel
pump, and from the fuel pump to the engine and tested the results.
I also did some other photos from under the engine and tranny for
header and clutch bracket work.

07 Apr 2012: Fuel line is in from the tank to the engine bay.

I have install new stainless fuel line from the tank to the fuel
pump, and from the fuel pump to the mild steel line just in front
of the rear wheels. That line continues to the front of the body
then between the frame and body to the engine bay. I need to make
some changes to that foremost line to complete it to the engine.

01 Apr 2012: Nope, not an April Fools joke, the fuel pump is in

Yep, even after thinking I really wasn't in the mood to do anything
I fabricated the fuel pump mounting bracket, including welding two
pieces of strap steel together, figured out where the bolt holes
needed to be, drilled and painted, then install the bracket and
the fuel pump. Just amazing how a day can turn out.

21 Mar 2012: Final fab work on headlight doors

Well, they're done. I used some low temp (350 deg) brazing rod
from Muggy Weld (muggyweld.com) to fill the screw heads and
the seams. Then some filing to smooth the areas. Last was
a coat of primer and then the white final color.
The second row of photos in this group show an original door
along with a new one for comparison.

18 Mar 2012: Step 4 of fab work on headlight doors

This step was to bolt the upper and lower halves together.
This needs to be strong enough to keep the headlight doors
from working loose and coming off the car while driving.
Another consideration was to provide a good solid basis for
filling the cracks and screw heads for that smooth final finish.

10 Mar 2012: Step 3 of fab work on headlight doors

This step was to section about 1/2 inch from the sides of each
piece and then trial fit them on the car. Note the use of duct
tape to temporarily hold them together for fit check. I took
another 1/8 inch to close up the gap at the bottom and it looks
so much better. Need to bolt the two halves together and paint.

23 Feb 2012: Testing headlight door materials

I tried heating the cut off headlight door rings to see how they
would react, and as expected, they did not fare well. The metal
is brittle and while cold, does not bend very far before breaking.
If heated, even just a little, it actually gets really soft really
quick, and can't be worked as it just separates and breaks off.

19 Feb 2012: Another step modifying new headlight doors

I removed a sliver moon piece where the brow of the headlight
door intersected with the headlamp bulb and rim. The next step
will be to remove 1/2 inch from the sides of the doors to get the
overall height to match the fenders.

02 Feb 2012: Doing some fab work on the new headlight doors

These doors are from a '55 T-bird and will be "transformed" to
fit the headlights on my '53 Ford. This step was to remove 3/4 inch
from the back edge to allow the headlight and door to align at the
headlight rim.

08 Jan 2012: A Change in the fuel line fittings at the tank.

After a long hiatus for the Christmas / New Years holidays
I actually did a little work on the Ford, getting ready for a
complete rework of the fuel system. I will be replacing the
mild steel fuel lines with 3/8 stainless, and relocating the fuel pump.

13 Nov 2011: I have built a workbench

The vise is installed and ready for use.
Not shown is a chop saw which will do for cutting the header tubes.

29 Oct 2011: I need shop facilities I don't yet have.

I will be acquiring a bench, vise, and bandsaw so that I can
make these headers in some sort of decent timeframe.

28 Oct 2011: Got the motor running today!!!

This was the first time that this motor had been run in the past
2 years, and man did it run GREAT! It really sounded mean and
ready to kick some backend. Can't wait to get this on the street.

25 Oct 2011: I have begun the process of building my own headers.

I have ordered and received a bunch of mandrel bent and straight
tubing, along with welding supplies for the job.

Here are two pages of drawings that I have finally come up with as some place to start.

15 Oct 2011: The whole Dalool Auto / Visions Racing (Bud Fizone) thing fizzled.

I'm going to do my own headers. With help from "Headers By Ed"
I'm proceeding on my own. My welding skills are horrible, but Oh Well.
This guy has been building headers since 1962 and really knows his stuff,
and is VERY passionate about doing things right. He is excellent help.

10 Sep 2011: New instrument cluster install complete

04 Sep 2011: New instrument cluster first try install (wiring done)

03 Sep 2011: New kick panels with 5.25 speakers

27-28 Aug 2011: New aluminum surround for the instrument cluster

25 Aug 2011: Brought the car back home (Dalool work not yet started)

18 Aug 2011: Off to Dalool Performance for clutch linkage and headers

17 Aug 2011: ReInstall new fuel sending unit and gas tank

12-14 Aug 2011: ReInstall spark plug wires and looms

Changed to Champion spark plugs, gapped and tightened,
Used straight ends on the spark plug wires and reinstalled them,
Removed the fuel tank for final inspection and found that the
sending unit had been incorrectly assembled requiring a new one.

11 Aug 2011: Located someone to fab my headers!!!
Bud Fizone at Visions Race Cars has agreed to build them for me.

Dalool Performance will also be performing some needed work.

New 12v heater fan motor assembled to mounting plate and fan cage

06 Aug 2011: Install spark plug wires and looms

05 Aug 2011: Photos for header, gas pedal, and fuel line work

29 July 2011: Finish thermal controls fastening and install upper
radiator support with Ford emblem

28 July 2011: Rework heater hose bypass

26 July 2011: Removed old, install new oil pressure sending unit

25 July 2011: Install thermal controls for electric fan

24 July 2011: 3/8 stainless tube for PCV, wiring work around alternator,
install electric radiator fan

23 July 2011: New driveshaft installed

18 July 2011: New driveshaft ordered

17 July 2011: Fixed a leak in the rear brake lines

07 July 2011: More little things, and such

More done on engine wiring and plumbing.
The oil is in the motor and the compression is good on all cylinders.

21 June 2011: A little piddlin with throttle stuff and wires

17 June 2011: Home from Al's Rod & Custom

The motor and trans are mounted, the right side header is in,
and the gas tank and fuel and brake lines are done. I have mounted
the radiator and Hurst shifter. I still do not have a header on
the driver side.

10 June 2011: Al's Rod & Custom status shots

Well, not much to report yet, but the crossmember is cut
as is the drive tunnel, to fit the engine down in there.
Tune in next week for more!!

07 June 2011: It's off to Al's Rod & Custom

It's time for some professional assistance with the front
crossmember and headers. And no, the Sanderson driver side header
didn't work out. Really nice headers though.

30 May 2011: The Cleveland is sitting in the Ford!!!

After two days of lousy weather keeping me inside playing PS3
I got the Cleveland into the Ford. It isn't where it needs to be
and isn't bolted down at all, just sitting on the crossmembers.
But it IS in the car and looks real nice there. I now need to
consider my options on how to proceed. I did have an epiphany
about cutting the drive tunnel open (which would allow the motor
to fit without other mods) and install a center console with a
plexiglass top. That would allow the occupants in the front seat
to view the transmission as it goes through shifting, etc.

22 May 2011: The Cleveland is preped and ready.

16 Apr 2011: The flathead is out.

26 Feb 2011: Milodon oil pan in place.

06 Dec 2010: Removal of steering column shift mechanism complete.

16 Nov 2010: The transmission joins the engine and car as ready.

04 Mar 2011: Front sway bar replacement.

12 Mar 2011: New radiator, and replacement of rear axle begins.

13 Mar 2011: Old rear axle completely loose of car.

19 Mar 2011: And the new axle is in.

Dave Phillips, his son Mike, and Me.
My neighbor Richie gave some (im)moral support.

29 Mar 2011: With the axle back out, relocated the perches.

02 Apr 2011: The axle is back in with powder coated parts.

I completed the perch welding, painted the axle,
installed new stainless brake lines, and installed the new axle
usling the newly powder coated u-bolts and plates.

02 Feb 2011: Milodon Drag Race oil pan.

12 Nov 2010: A cleaned up bell housing by David Phillips.

08 Jul 2010: New chrome starter

26 Jun 2010: Modified and painted alternator mounting brackets

06 Jun 2010: New black powder coated alternator

04 Jun 2010: New Hedman Hedders 88220 (probably won't fit car)

25 Apr 2010: Removed Oil Pan for bottom inspection - A-Ok

09 Apr 2010: New Pioneer harmonic balancer

03 Apr 2010: Valve train has been inspected, rockers adjusted,
and intake manifold installed and torqued.

18 Mar 2010: New front cover

17 Feb 2010: K&N 66-1520 Air Filter

12 Feb 2010: Holley 4150 of 750cfm

02 Feb 2010: Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold,
Edelbrock Victor high volume water pump, and
Mobil 1 oil filter

19 Jan 2010: Chrome water neck and a high volume thermostat.

Note that the new parts are just trial fitted at this point

16 Jan 2010: How it looked when I got it.

Pretty nice really, rotating assembly has 3,000 miles and
is in great shape, has brand new head work and the Crane rollers.
Cam is a Ford SVO M-6250-A341 with 292i/302e duration,
.510i/.536e lift (dur 214i/224e @ .050 lift)

Ford Toploader 4 Speed Transmission

13 Feb 2010: Ford Toploader 4 speed to go behind it.

Tag: RUG-AU, 014554; case C8AR-7006-W1; tail C90R-7A040-A-W1

and D1TA-6394-AA bell housing

12 Oct 2010: Ford Toploader 4 speed shipped to Texas

Gone here for overhaul:


David Kee Toploader Transmissions, Inc.

08 Nov 2010: It's done! And now to ship it back here.

10 Nov 2010: Ford Toploader 4 speed shipped back to me.

Arrived here 16 Nov 2010

16 Nov 2010: The transmission is back from Texas.

Thanks to David Kee for an excellent rebuild. WOW!!!

I also acquired the new Hurst Competition Plus Shifter and
a clutch fork and fork boot from him.

Mated up with the shifter and bellhousing it looks great!

22 Oct 2010: Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate are here.

These were purchased through David Kee Toploaders

McLeod flywheel 463200-28 and clutch kit 75211

Ford 9 inch Rear Axle

24 Aug 2010: Ford 9" Rear Axle to put it to the pavement.

The new axle is here and ready for paint (and spring perches).

30 Oct 2010: And the tires are: Firestone Firehawk Indy 500

09 Sep 2010: Photos of the new third member

As the new rear gets closer to complete, this unit will be
cleaned and refit with new bearings and a proper setup

Numbers:
Carrier case C7AW-E
Ring Gear D2TW-4210-A (3.50 ratio)
Spool C6AW-4205-B (Trac-Loc, 31 spline)

27 Dec 2010: Photos of the completed new axle and carrier.
Now for paint and the brake lines.

Electrical Rework

Including Stereo and Instrument Cluster

27 Aug 2011: Updated bezel for new dash insert.

Same Stewart Warner guages, red oak panel, two lamps for turn
signals and one for high-beam indicator, and (the update) a
hand fabricated aluminum bezel.

02 Feb 2011: I came up with this design for the dash insert.

It uses Stewart Warner guages, red oak panel, will have two
lamps for turn signals and one for high-beam indicator, and will use a modified spare cluster face surround.

11 Nov 2010: The electric wiper motor is in and working.

A really easy install, and it even uses the original dash knob.

10 Nov 2010: Some new stuff for the inside.

I have acquired a couple of shift knobs,
a 12v to 6v power module for the dash gauges,
and an electric windshield wiper motor conversion.

24 Oct 2010: CD rear speakers install completed.

I have also completed the mounting of the rear speakers in
the rear package shelf. I have yet to complete the new kick panels
and boxes for the front speakers.

16 Oct 2010: CD mounting fixture completed.

I managed to find another original radio on EBay (broken and cheap)
with a good faceplate and used that one for cutting to fit the CD
unit for use as a mount. I will keep the rest of the broken radio
with the good original as spare parts.

I completed the modification of the radio bezel and the two angle
brackets for mounting the CD player, and the plastic surround.

05 Oct 2010: CD/Stereo intallation and test.

I made up the wiring for a 4 speaker CD stereo
and hooked it up with the rear 6x9 speakers just sitting on
the back shelf and the front 5.25 speakers stuck to the kick
panels (speaker magnets!!). It really didn't sound great (duh)
but it did work and it was still WAY better than the old AM radio

24 Sep 2010: Doing electrical rework.

While waiting for the toploader to be rebuilt,
I've settled into reworking the electrical stuff
and converting more stuff to 12 volts, including dome lights,
instrument lamps, and making the headlights, parking lights,
tail lights, and turn signals all work with the new voltage.

I discovered when removing the old radio (6v tube AM only)
that I won't have to carve the dash to put in a CD player.
So many of the cars from late '50s through '70s had a radio
mounting method of a faceplate with two holes for the controls
and a rectangular hole for the radio band display. Well, this
has a nice big rectangular hole with more than enough room
for the new CD player and an easy mounting setup. Amazing!!

11 Sep 2010: And the engine swap begins.
God Bless America on this day of Historic Infamy.

Progress for that first weekend:
Disconnect all top accessible attachments to the engine.
Drain and remove radiator, and 6v horns.
Remove old 6v battery and regulator, clean and paint battery tray.
Rework headlight and parking lamp fixtures, clean and treat rust.
Install new 12v battery, headlamps, parking lamps, and horns.
Install new 12v starter solenoid.
Trade out '53 headlight doors for '55 T-Bird headlight doors...
Note that the '55 set still need to be reworked for proper fit.
Remove hood.

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